Bindella (aka Tenuta Vallocaia), Montepulciano

The wine region of Montepulciano is famous for its particular take on the great Tuscan grape, Sangiovese, which there is called Vino Nobile de Montepulciano.

Two days of our Tuscan wine tour in June 2016 were spent here.

The first winery we visited was Bindella, otherwise known as Tenuta Vallocaia, which is located in the South East of the region, about three miles from the denomination’s eponymous hilltop town, and has a total annual production of around 150,000 bottles.

I was warmly greeted by Francesca Coppi, who graciously gave me two hours of her time, explaining not only Bindella’s wines but also much about the appellation and the area.

Bindella has been in business since 1983 and has vineyards in four sites in Montepulciano, on a mixture of sandy and clay soils.

They primarily make the wines of the denomination, which are threefold: the lighter, DOC Rosso de Montepulciano, the famous DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano and the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva. In general, Rossos are made for easier drinking, from newer vines, with less extraction and less time in oak. The Vino Nobile de Montepulciano must be a minimum of 70% Sangiovese and must be aged for 2 years before sale, whilst the Riservas are only made in good years and must be aged for 3 years.

Bindella’s policy is to release wines one year later than the minimum required.

Bindella also make two whites, one from the local Trebbiano and one from Sauvignon Blanc, grown to take advantage of a cooler vineyard site; plus two single varietal reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Tasting notes:

1. Bindella. IGT Toscana. 100% Trebbiano. 2015.

The grapes for this wine are packed in dry ice after picking to help maintain the fresh floral characteristics of the wine.

Nose: lemon and grapefruit
Palate: Lemon but rounder than the nose. Crisp and fresh.
Finish: short and clean

Mole rating: Good (3)
2. Bindella ‘Gemella’. IGT Toscana. 100% Sauvignon Blanc. 2015.
Nose: Grapefruit and some floral overtones.
Palate: Grapefruit but rounder than the nose suggests again. Crisp with medium (+) acidity.
Finish: clean

Mole rating: Good (3)

3. Bindella ‘Fossolupaio’. DOC Rosso di Montepulciano. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Syrah. 2014.

The soil is mostly sandy and the wine is fermented in stainless steel and has no oak ageing.

Appearance: Ruby red with purple notes
Nose: Red cherry
Palate: Crisp red cherry. Fruity with firm tannin. Medium acidity.
Finish: short

Mole rating: Good (3)

A little young – best drunk in two years time.

4. Bindella. DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano. 85% Sangiovese, 15% Colorino, Canaiolo and Mammolo. 2012. 14%.

Aged for two years in large barrels.

Appearance: Ruby with medium intensity
Nose: Dark cherry with a little hint of sweetness
Palate: Redder cherry than the nose. Medium tannin. Smooth with lots of acidity.
Finish: Medium

Price: €16

Mole rating: Very Good (4)

5. Bindella. DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano ‘I Quadri’. 100% Sangiovese. 2012? 14.5%

Vines grown on clay soils and aged for 18 months in ‘tonno’. The clay soil gives more concentration in the grapes, and thus the wine, so it is aged in smaller barrels than no.4.

Appearance: Ruby with medium intensity
Nose: Intense cherry nose and oak a little more obvious
Palate: Redder cherry than the nose. Fruitier and fuller than no.4. Medium plus tannin.
Finish: Medium minus

Mole rating: Very Good (4)

Price: €25

6. Bindella. DOCG Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva ‘Vallocaia’. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino. 2010.

The wine is aged for 2 1/2 years in big oak barrels and 6 months in bottle.

Appearance: Ruby with medium intensity
Nose: Intense ripe black cherry nose with no oak apparent
Palate: Medium plus body of cherry, blackberry and sweet spice. Medium plus tannin.
Finish: long

Mole rating: Outstanding (5)

This wine sits between the elegance and length of the Bindella and the fruity fullness of the I Quadri. According to Francesca, the wine has a lifetime of approximately 15 years from harvest, so buy now and enjoy in 5 years time or so.

Price: €30

7. Bindella ‘Antenata’. IGT Toscana. 100% Merlot. 2013.

The wine is made on clay soil.

Appearance: Ruby with medium intensity
Nose: Dark berry and spice
Palate: Round and dry
Finish: Short

Mole rating: Good (3)

8. Bindella ‘Gioia’. IGT Toscana. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2013.

Appearance: Ruby with deep intensity
Nose: Ripe blackberry
Palate: Full blackcurrant with medium plus tannins
Finish: Sweetish and short

Mole rating: Good (3)

9. Bindella Vin Santo ‘Occio de Pernice’. 2007.

Aged for 6 years in the small barrels (caratelli).

Appearance: Dark chestnut brown, deep intensity
Nose: A two layered nose – a sweet caramel perfume and then a figgy raisiny nose.
Palate: Viscous texture with sweet fig and caramel.
Finish: Long long finish with a clean acidity at the end

Mole rating: Outstanding (5)

Price: €45