Estate Argyros, Santorini
The winery at Estate Argyros, which dates from 2014, has a very impressive entrance, with vines trained low on either side. The reception and tasting area is very airy with great magnums and jeroboams of the different cuvees on show.
The brand image has two mules and a man with a plough, which is how the land is ploughed today on this organic estate.
The winery was established in 1903, and they now have 130 hectares under vine, all organically farmed. The soil (if it can be said to be such) on Santorini is sandy, with pumice and a lot of volcanic ash. The climate is also incredibly dry, with very low rainfall. At Argyros, they encourage their new vines to dig deep for water – vines are given periodic drip-fed micro irrigation up to the age of six, and then left to their own devices. Santorini also has a great deal of strong dunight, and indeed strong winds. in 2019, Argyros lost around 20% of their crop due to severe winds when the vines were still in flower.
Vines are trained in the ‘kouloura’ method – low to the ground, and wound round in circles so they resemble a basket shape. This is done to protect the vines from the wind, to shield the grapes from the scorching sun, and also to lengthen the time during which the precious water in the morning dew is near the vines.
Santorini’s volcanic history also means that there are no bugs and no diseases, which is a great boon for the winemaker, and indeed makes farming organically considerably easier, and cheaper.
All vineyard operations are done by hand – machines would not be practical with vines of this type.
The white variety Assyrtiko comprises 80% of the cultivation, with some vines as much as 250 years old. The white grapes Aidani and Athiri are also planted, as well as the red Mavrotragano. Argyros produces around 400,000 bottles per year, and has two main ranges – Atlantis, which is the entry level range of blended wines for easy and early drinking, and Estate which contains the higher quality single varietal wines from Assyrtiko, Aidani and Mavrotragno. They also make a range of Vinsanto wines, naturally sweet, made from grapes sun-dried to reduce the water content.
Tasting
I was unable to taste the red Estate Argyros Mavrotragano as they had run out of stock of it two months previously.
- Estate Argyros Aidani. 2018. 13%. Check price
Appearance: Pale yellow
Nose: A very precise nose – mineral, with citrus and floral notes
Palate: A very fruity palate with lemon, lime and pineapple. Medium acidity and a medium minus body
Finish: Medium, clean and crisp
Mole rating: 4 – Very good.
2. Estate Argyros Assyrtiko. 2018. 13.5%. Check price
Vines of 100 – 120 years old.
Appearance: Pale yellow
Nose: Mineral and citrus fruits
Palate: A citrus palate, mineral, crstalline and fruity. Medium body, medium plus acidity
Finish: Medium plus clean lemon finish, longer than the Aidani
Mole rating: 5 – Outstanding.
3. Cuvee Monsignor. 2017. 14%. Check price
Vines of at least 200 years old
Appearance: Intense yellow
Nose: Crystalline nose of intense citrus and mineral notes
Palate: A full bodied viscous palate with intense flavours of citrus, lime and minerality.
Finish: A very long citrus finish
Mole rating: 6 – Exceptional.
4. Vinsanto. 2012. 13%. Check price
Matured in 500l French oak barrels for 4 years
Appearance: Honey
Nose: Caramel, dried fig, plum and orange zest
Palate: Sweet, with a palate of butterscotch, caramel, fig and orange peel. High acidity cutting through at the end.
Finish: A very long sweet finish
Mole rating: 5 – Outstanding.