Elio Grasso, Barolo
We visited Elio Grasso on a very wet afternoon in May 2018 and were met by the charming Roberto Bortignon. He surveyed the rain-lashed landscape from the safety of the winery’s front door and commented that ‘rain is a big problem’, with powdery mildew being a particular challenge for the winemakers, and due to the steepness of the vineyards and the composition of the soil, it is almost impossible to treat as one can’t stand up in the slippery soil on a wet day.
Grasso owns 42 hectares of land, of which 18 are given over to vine, the remainder being woodland with a number of hazelnut trees, one of the other great products of this region.
Grasso produces around 95,000 bottles a year – a Chardonnay, a Dolcetto, a Barbera and 3 Barolos. The first vintage was in 1978, and the winery as it is today was built in the 1990s. Wine is exported primarily to the UK and the US.
They have two single vineyards – Gavarini Chineira and Ginestra casa Mate. Whilst both have limestone, clay and sandstone soils, Gavarini has more sand and is a convex shape so produces lighter wines, whereas Ginestra is in a bowl and so hotter.
Vinification for the first fermentation is done in stainless steel, with temperature control and particular focus on oxygen control. They are concerned about the yeast brettanomyces (aka ‘Brett’) and ensuring it does not adversely affect their wines. They employ the services of an oenologist to assist their efforts in making great wines.
Maceration is done in Slavonian oak casks of 2,500l capacity, which are used for around 20 years. The Barolo Riserva, only made in very good years, is aged in new French oadk for 3-4 years. The last Riserva that was released to market was 2010 – the 2013, 2015 and 2016 did too, but they are still maturing.
The barrel cellar itself is 8m underground and is an extraordinary arch shape.
So, to the tasting..
1. Dolcetto d’Alba. 2017. 14.5%. €10.5.
Stainless steel only.
Appearance: Beetroot red.
Nose: Little obvious nose.
Palate: Juicy raspberry and violet. A medium body, and medium acidity. A noticeably sweter finish that many other Dolcettos I’ve had which can taste almost metallic.
Mole rating: (4) Very good.
2. Langhe Nebbiolo ‘Gavarini’. 2017. 14.5%. €15.
Stainless steel with 4-5 days maceration.
Appearance: Ruby with a garnet edge.
Nose: Red fruit.
Palate: Bright raspberry and cherry. Decent acidity and grippy tannin
Mole rating: (4) Very good.
3. Dolcetto d’Alaba ‘Virgina Martina’. 2015. 15%. €18.
Stainless steel and then 18 months in barriques – 50% new, 50% one year old
Appearance: Intense purple.
Nose: Vanilla, blackberry and cassis.
Palate: A full body of black cherry with medium plus acidity, smooth tannins and a medium finish.
Mole rating: (4) Very good.
4. Barolo. 2014. 14%. €48.
Stainless steel and then large Slavonian oak
Appearance: Pale red.
Nose: An intense nose of pepper, a little spice, red cherry, orange rind and possibly cocoa.
Palate: A full body of bright red cherry with fresh acidity, punchy tannins and a long finish.
Mole rating: (5) Outstanding.