Marchese di Barolo, Barolo

This winery is situated slap bang in the middle of the village of Barolo. We visited on the May Day bank holiday and received a very warm welcome from Maria Stella and Giulia Cornaglia, the latter giving us the tour and guiding the tasting.

The winery dates from the early 19th century, when the French noblewoman Juliette Colbert de Maulévrier, new wife of the Marchese di Barolo, noticed the potential of the local grapes, and introduced more advanced viniculture to the area. When the couple died childless the winery was taken over by a charity, the Opera Pia Barolo, but when rules changed preventing charities owning commercial enterprises, it was bought by the Abbona family, who still run it.

We started in the cellar looking at the huge, 185 hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels, known as ‘botti’, which are used for the ageing of most of the wines. These vessels are chosen so as to impart minimal oak character to the final wines, but allow the maturation essential for a good wine, and indeed required by the appellation rules (Barolo DOCG must be aged for three years before release, of which 18 months must be in oak). They also have some barriques, which are used for the ‘cru’ Barolos, that is those from the best single vineyards. The crus are aged 1/3 in barriques, which are used up to four times, and 2/3 in the botti.

The winery has a few botti which are now 200 years old and are still used for ageing – a great example of making the most of what the planet gives us.

The first fermentation is done in steel, and the second malolactic in concrete lined with oak, then the wine is transferred to the botti.

The tour ended with a visit to the bottle cellar, where many of the oldest vintages are still kept. I would heartily recommend a visit to the Marchese – the tour was professional, friendly and small, and the winery is a two minute walk from the town centre, where you can sample the excellent restaurants of Barolo; the Marchese also has their own restaurant although we didn’t try it on that occasion.

Tasting

1. ‘Pieragal’. Barbera d’Alba cru. 2015. 14%. 17 euros.

This is aged for 6 months in barrique and 6 in bottle.

Nose: Blackberry and vanilla, pepper and earth.

Palate: A medium body of black cherry and mushroom. A short finish with a sweetish edge. Medium acidity and balanced alcohol.

Mole rating: Good (3).

2. ‘Seragrilli’. Barbaresco DOCG, from Neive. 2013. 14%. 29.50 euros.

Aged 1/3 for 6 months in barrique, 2/3 for 1 year in 30-36 hl botti, then 1 year in bottle.

The soil here is sandy topsoil with clay underneath.

Colour: Garnet

Nose: Red cherry, something akin to redcurrant, but not as sharp, some cinnamon.

Palate: Crisp red cherry with a medium minus body, medium plus acidity and a medium finish.

Mole rating: Very good (4).

3. ‘Coste di Rose’. Barolo DOCG cru. 2012. 14%. 42.50 euros.

Aged 1/3 for 6 months in barrique, 2/3 for 2 years in botti, then 1 year in bottle.

The soil here is grainy sandstone.

Appearance: Garnet

Nose: Fresh, violet and a hint of mint. Also some figgy leathery notes.

Palate: A medium body of crisp cherry, no tertiary characteristics, fuller than number 2, fairly grippy tannins, and a long finish.

Mole rating: Outstanding (5)

4. ‘Cannubi’. Barolo DOCG cru. 2013. 14%. 51.50 euros.

Aged 1/3 for 6 months in barrique, 2/3 for 2 years in botti, then 1 year in bottle.

The soil here is coarser than the Coste di Rose.

Appearance: Garnet

Nose: Quite closed, less complex than the Coste di Rose at this age, blacker fruit, and no tertiary character.

Palate: A full budy, with crisp sharp cherry somewhere between red and black. A crisp finish with powerful tannins. A long finish. Not yet ready but it’s possible to sense it will be good.

Mole rating: Outstanding (5)

5. ‘Sarmassa’. Barolo DOCG cru. 2012. 14%. 51.50 euros.

Aged 1/3 for 6 months in barrique, 2/3 for 2 years in botti, then 1 year in bottle.

The soil here is coarser than the Cannubi.

Appearance: Garnet

Nose: A vanilla nose and ripe cherry. Less closed than the Cannubi despite it being the firmest of the crus. Perhaps the age here is key – being a year older than the Cannubi. Little tertiary character.

Palate: A full body, with black cherry. Smooth and a long crisp finish.

Mole rating: Outstanding (5)