Bruno Rocca, Barbaresco

Bruno Rocca’s winery is situated at the top of the Rabaja hill on the road heading south from Barbaresco to Tre Stelle (see above for the view on a rather grey day, the 2nd of May 2018). They have four vineyards in total, with a total of 15 hectares under vine. We were met enthusisastically by Elena Oberta, a red haired young woman who is clearly passionate about Barbaresco and about the wines they make at Bruno Rocca.

She explained to us the strict appellation rules in force in Barbaresco which, as well as the normal restrictions on grape varieties, yield and so on, include the requirement that the vineyards are on south facing slopes. This is presumably to maintain the quality of the wine and thus the reputation of the appellation.

Bruno Rocca is an organic winery, and it was clear from Elena that they care deeply about the land and their impact as winemakers on it. Instead of chemcial pesticides they use treatments based on plant extracts including ivy. They also plant other crops between the vines, such as oat and wheat, to fix nitrogen, and they use ‘pheromone bracelets’ to attract the insects that benefit the vines and ecosystem and discourage those that damage the vines.

The winery as is it now, started in 1978. Prior to that, Francesco Rocca Senior bought the land in the 50s, grew vines and sold them to the local coop. When he died, his son Bruno decided to make his own wine, and started the winery as a hobby whilst keeping his job in the marketing department of the famous chocolate maker Ferrero, which is based in the nearby city of Alba. He made his first vintage in 1981, his first good one in 1982 and then left his job to be a full-time winemaker.

Barbaresco has a much shorter history than that of its more famous neighbour Barolo. Unlike Barolo, Barbaresco is not on the way to anywhere; nor did it have the money of a noble family behind it, so the reputation really started in the 1970s. In World War Two, the vines were uprooted to make way for crops to feed the soldiers and then phylloxera hit, so the oldest vines here date from the 1950s.

Post-war many families were disillusioned with working the land and the (generally male) children were sent off to learn a profession. Many of the wineries there now date back to the 1970s where children like Bruno Rocca returned to the land to farm it once more. Elena told us that the vintners of Barbaresco would therefore argue that the wine is better now, because it is being made by those who really have a passion for it, as opposed to those who just do it because their forefathers did it.

The winery is a purpose built affair with grape reception and first fermentation on the ground floor and secondary fermentation on the first floor. Grape selection is done by hand in the field, so no sorting table is needed. The destemmer is designed for Pinot Noir, which requires similar treatment to Nebbiolo, and a rotary press is used.

The first fermentation for the Barbaresco Riserva is done using whole berries, and unusually in New French oak, for 25-30 days, for a delicate but long extraction. Fermentation for other wines is done in steel – horizontal vessels for Barbera and Chardonnay; and vertical for Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, where the cap is not plunged and pull over is done gently.

The barrel cellar is 15m underground and kept at 13 degrees centigrade and 90% relative humidity. The air is filtered to ensure no pollens get in so the cellar is immaculate – this is a very sterile operation. The oak used is aged for 40 months before making the barrels and is all French, with a medium to light toast. The barriques are used no more than five times. They also use larger vessels, of capacity from 14 to 17 hl.

Their main outlet in the UK is Liberty Wines.

Tasting

1. Langhe Chardonnay. 2014. 13.5%. 15 euros.
Aged 20% in barrique and 80% steel. No MLF.
Appearance: Intense golden yellow.
Nose: A fresh fruit nose with little oak character.
Palate: A citrus body with somee butter from the oak. A crisp palate with a medium finish. Acidity medium. Reasonably well balanced if a little lacking in acidity

Mole rating: (3) Good.

2. Dolcetto d’Alba. 2015. 14%. 11 euros.
No oak ageing, all steel for freshness.
Appearance: Ruby with a pinkish hue – Dolcetto has a very particular colour which is distinctive.
Nose: A reddish fruit nose primarily, with a little black cherry.
Palate: A crisp reducrrant palate, with a little tannin. A clean and gente finish.

Mole rating: (3) Good.

3. Barbera d’Alba. 2014. 14%. 19 euros.
Ageing – 12 months in barrique
Appearance: Redder than the Dolcetto
Nose: Predominantly black fruit – blackberry; with some pepper and clove.
Palate: A fuller body than the Dolcetto, with black fruit, pepper. Dry but less so than the Dolcetto. Full acidity, with medium tannin and a medium finish.

Mole rating: (4) Very Good.

4. Barbaresco Classico. 2015. 14.5%. 36 euros.
Vines selected for the Langhe Nebbiolo are typically 12-15 years old but for the Classico, an average of 30.
Ageing – 16-18 months in barrique
Appearance: Pale garnet
Nose: A red fruit nose but with something else indefinable. Also a scent of rose.
Palate: A full body, with ripe cherry and cranberry.

Mole rating: (4) Very Good.

5. Barbaresco Cru ‘Rabaja’. 2015. 14.5%. 72 euros.
Ageing – 16-18 months inbarrique
Appearance: Pale garnet
Nose: An elegant sweeter red nose than the Classico – strawberry jam, and less floral.
Palate: A full body, very dry with jammy strawberry flavours. A long elegant finish.

Mole rating: (5) Excellent.